Build a PRO FPV Racing Drone for ONLY $99 Full guide – 2018 UAVFUTURES $99 Build

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Get a dude from UAB futures here strap yourself in get excited get pumped because today we’ve got one of the most requested the most exciting videos we have ever done on this channel what we’re talking about it’s the updated version the UAB future’s $99 build the 2018 version now about a year ago we did the $99 build it was able to get people into drone racing they didn’t have too much cash to spare but they still wanted a good reliable drone they could fly around have a lot of fun with and so many of you people out there built it there have been thousands of pictures now people flying around with the UAV futures $99 build well here today I’m here to tell you we’ve updated it and we have pushed the stakes even more so for around that hundred bucks build you’re going to get this you’re going to get even more durable you’re going to get faster you’re getting in an f4 processor and onboard OSD smart audio and it is absolutely crazy how much feature pack we’re going to get in there for the price and people cents to it that’s crazy you’re not going to be able to do it and I’m here to tell you today we’ve done it I’m gonna put all the links down below so you can mix and match and we’re going to be going through I’m gonna showing you step-by-step how to start with the bare components build it up and you’re gonna end up with some bad boys like this I mean look at these things these builds they look absolutely gorgeous and I’m here to tell you they are ridiculously fast they are really really durable and you’re gonna have an awesome time so whether you’re new to the Hobby you’ve never built before I’m going to be taking you through the very easy process of building these things or maybe you’re Apollinaire you’ve already got some drones but you think you know what for a hundred bucks why not I mean it is ridiculous what we’ve got right here after you build one of these things and be prepared they are very very fast you’ll be seeing some speeds like this 89 miles an hour and when you were out with your mates you’re gonna have an absolute ball of autonomy check out this footage they are so much fun so if you’re new to fpv drone racing get ready there is no better kit to get started you’re gonna absolutely love it now what could make a UAV futures none and I’ve got a build even better you say well a bit of a giveaway so I look you can tell I don’t really need any more drones so what I’m going to do I’ve built these two what these are the ones we see in the video but I want to give them out to you guys as well so are somebody out there they’re going to be winning some drones I’m gonna put the Official Rules down below just like make sure that you’re like comment subscribe hit that Bell notification button all that sort of stuff but I thought I might doing a bit differently this time I want to give them out to people who enjoyed the video who got something out of it so leave a comment down below about something you enjoyed about the video watch it all the way through and let me know which part really works for you how is it going to help you and then so that’s going to be for the base version and then here’s the little bit of a kick a something a little bit different what I want you to do we’re going to give away or one of these to somebody who replied to somebody else’s comment so if you leave a meaningful comment for somebody based I want a bit of community interaction that’s what it’s all about getting a community together so if you reply to somebody else’s comment that’s who this one’s going to be going to so this is the upgraded pro version right here so pretty much you’re going to need to comment twice normal a normal one is just your normal comment and replying to someone else well and if you’re helping them out that’s where you go into the draw to win the pro version now a massive shout out to my patreon supporters I couldn’t make these videos without your support so if you get something out of this video if it helps you get flying if you enjoy my content on you ever futures I’m gonna put the link down below you can sign up to those things you know you get things like bonus velcro straps we’re sending out prizes all the time but one of the prizes for you guys as well is for my patreon I’ve got the kit here it’s essentially one of these kids but it’s it’s not built up yet so I’m gonna be posting that out to somebody as well for my patrons for a bit of a prize for them so they can have the pleasure of building along I guess to this video but enough rambling let’s stick these absolute and race beautiful monsters on the bench then we’ll break it down go through the components and show you how easy it is to build one of the best cheapest FPV racing drones out there for like 100 likes absolutely insane nut frame let’s stick it on the bench and let’s get started in three two one alrighty here they are on the bench a bit of a close-up I’m so excited guys to show you this I’ve been putting in a lot of work because last time when we did the UAV futures $99 build a lot of people did that we went back to the drawing board and we’ve made something even better so we’ve got the pro upgraded version over this side the standard base version here and let me tell you it is ridiculous now what you can get if you do the homework if you shop around and you’re willing to build it yourself I mean for a hundred bucks or very close to and prices may fluctuate up or down just a little bit at a time all flash and pictures on the screen anyway I mean like a $14 frame three dollar 50 ESC s probably a dollar for props you know eleven dollar camera eleven dollar VTX and then the rest in our motors so whether you want to get some little upgrade motors for like nine ten dollars whether you want to get some $7 cheaper ones it is crazy the amount of performance don’t let the $99 price tag fool you this is a real racers drone it is going to stand up to a lot of abuse and handle crash as well and it’s gonna go very very fast now what we’re gonna do we’re gonna go back in time thanks to editing all the components laid out before we built them out we’ll go through them talked about why we picked each one and why that’s a good option where the upgrades are where it’s worth investing your money if you want to put in a little bit extra and show you some different options of how the builds can go together and then the fun stuff let’s show you how to build this because that’s what we’re here for and let me tell you you’re not gonna regret it especially if this is your first time getting into fpv racing drones you cannot do it cheaper and get a better drone than this so let’s do it kick it off and have some fun with the build in three two one alrighty here it is here’s all that kit on the bench and I can’t stress this enough every single one of these components is going to be listed down below we’ve got the pro version over on this side this is the kit it’s gonna be using the standard version over here but there is no reason you can’t mix and match and there’s going to be some things that like if this frame is going to sold it sell out I’m going to put some others down below so you can mix and match choose the drone that’s right for you right for your budget but what is absolutely critical is that we have an upgrade from last year so we want fast we want durable but on top of that we want to have and we wanna have smart audio an f4 processor and also an OSD on our screen so we can get some information back to our pilot when we’ve got our goggles on so that’s the goal of this one this sides going to be relatively cheaper this site is going to be a little bit extra but both of these things they’re going to be absolute performance packed crazy little fpv racing machines now the one common component that is in this is this frame that I’m using so this is the twe ten and what are we going through all these components and light shows and that sort of stuff but this thing it’s a four millimeter unibody baseplate it is an absolute tank like this thing is so stiff it is ridiculous it’s got plenty of room and it’s going to take an absolute beating so if you’re a beginner or just want a second Bosch Accord something like this is amazing and then there’s another option too maybe you want something with replaceable arm so this one’s it’s an oldie but it’s a goodie I’m also going to link the marsh and frame down below because that one it’s wood stood the test of time and a lot of people have used this frame but this one for me it was an absolute steal when I got it for about fourteen dollars what we should do let’s go through some of the other components can start on the base version first and then we’ll go through the kit that I’m going to be using in the upgraded version at the front what we’ve got we’ve got a pretty generic camera at the front it’s a JJ a it’s a CMOS camera 1200 TVL but it’s got a really nice lens on there so you anybody get a really nice sort of wide field of view as you’re flying around now this part here moving on to the motors this is going to cause a little bit of contention and out of anything I cannot stress this enough for this video to get all the features that we wanted fast durable OS DF for smart audio we did have to make some sacrifices you know to keep that cost down to keep it as close to 100 bucks $99 as we could if you can only afford $100 and you’re watching this video you are gonna have to use these racist our motors they’re the same ones I used in the last build and I believe they’re like $28 or something like that but I can’t stress this bit enough please you know spend there about $8 each and motor or $7 please spend just a few extra dollars I think these ones they’re about ten dollars each for the dys samguk series because I’m using these and both are they are an awesome motor especially for the price these these are probably my favorite motors value was to date so I can’t stress that enough if you don’t know any single upgrade in this build put some of these dys motors in there wood stood a lot of people went flying them a lot of people like them and they are a huge upgrade to these one though over this side we’re going to be using the dys one motors I’ve got there I go the higher kv versions if you can I’ll link them all down below as well connected to that are we going to be going some individual ASCs here these are 25 MB oh hell es es es and Stuart the reason you might be saying stool why did you choose that the reason they would do it cheap so I think they were like when I picked these up they were like three dollars 50 I couldn’t help but add them to my cart as soon as I saw that was an absolute steal on that for all this stuff have a shop around look at the prices because prices are going to change have a look for the best deal that you can but we’re using some individual ASCS on this side mainly for the fact that they were cheap we’ve just got some pretty generic props right here now this one here this is just an F for flight controller it is going to be soft mounted and it’s got a built-in OSD so this is just a pretty generic omnibus so we’re going to be hooking that one up as well and then the other part because we’re going full ghetto Weaver I’m gonna put some links down you might not have any of this a little piece of wire and I’m recycling using another xt60 so that is the base kit over there almost forgot as well and we’ve got our little V TX which is you know just a little 20 by 20 stack it’s got smart audio changeable power levels it’s the I think it’s the 58 48 or something pretty you know generic names but I’ll link that down below as well and the beauty about this one it comes with a little bonus antenna so it’s not the best antenna but it’s definitely gonna get the job done now let’s move on have a look at the pro components that I’m going to be using so we’ve got a I’m foxy HS 1177 a really nice CCD camera with good wide dynamic range so that’s at the front I’ve chosen a nice blue color we’ve got some nice these are actually brand name props so they’re Emax props and the difference between props look it’s these ones they’re like a big bulk pack but the avians I think you can get them in bulk as well but they offer heaps of performance so this is gonna make you go very very quick again we’re using the dys but these I think it’s the is the Wiis yeah this is the we motor get the high kv version this one’s a 2600 kV version and then this one is where things get a little bit different so we using a four in one f4 fly control Lockwood built-in OSD so it kind of combines all of these parts you see on the base version if we get that there it combines all of these into one nice little part here and the beauty about this if you don’t like building if you don’t like soldering getting a board like this does make your build a lot easier and a lot cleaner there moving on to some of the other little bit so on this one you can buy xt 60’s already sold it up ready to rock and roll so I thought why not it’s gonna cost maybe one or two bucks extra but you know maybe you want to do is lease holding as possible that’s gonna help with that a beauty about this one we are using the TS 52 50 X 52 58 so this VTX here and also beauty about this one it’s got smart audio as well but you can change the antennas this one you can change the antennas that you’re going to put on here I’m gonna link some of these antennas down below whether you want axial antennas whether pagodas yeah you’ve got a few different options when it comes to mounting this so put that to the side and then down the bottom what you can see you can see right here this is my UAV futures velcro strap this is used to hold your battery on and if you want to become a patron support it’s like five dollars off that includes shipping I’ll post one of these out to you so if you’re looking around any want to buy a velcro strap anything gee I like this video it got me flying and really did help consider joining my patreon there should be a little link that pops up there and then I’ll post one of these or bad boys out you if you’d love to get one of these become a teen pilot with you of your futures definitely check out that link because that is this is my full-time gig and that really does help me support making these videos for you guys anyway or what we should do let’s kick it off get started with our UAV futures 2018 and $99 builds and let’s open this frame up and get building already so when you open your frame up or at least with this frame anyway you’re gonna get a whole bunch of extra little parts so stand off screws bolts all those things we’re going to put that to the side all we need to do is our first step but just going to put four little standoffs on here so take some of the longer screws put them through the bottom of the baseplate into those four holes and then screw on this part right here so one of those little sent off so that’s the first step so let’s do that right now so once you’ve done that what you need to do if you’re using the base version right here you can I get these little rubber grommets and that’s because it’s going to be soft mounting if using the four in one and you follow along with the pro version the upgraded you’ve got things a little bit easier just simply take off the little bit of heat shrink that comes with it put it on your board that one should be ready to rock and roll but this one just put these little grommets in so that’s the first thing we need to do all right so that’s done now I’ve pushed my little grommets in and then we’re just going to push it onto our little stack that we’re building right here it should slide just over the top you don’t have to screw it in or anything because it should just slide in there but please and make sure the little arrow is facing towards the front and these two little pads right here the USB is going to be on the left and these two little pads are facing out towards the back that’s actually where we’re going to hook up our battery right now your next step any little miscellaneous bag in a for find for these little screws so take them out and you’re gonna use that to screw down onto your flight controller and secure it to the frames let’s go ahead and do that now and then cut back once that’s finished so that’s all done nice and snug now it’s time to take care of our PSCs if you’re building the provo you know we’ve sort of got some convenience there that’s what you’re paying for you don’t have to worry too much about your C’s because you’ve already installed them this one on the base version on the really budget version we’re going to be putting our es CS we’re going to be hooking them up straight to our motors so first things first we’re going to be cutting off this clear heat shrink that it’s got so you don’t need to do that to all four of your IES C’s and then we’ll jump back and I’ll show you how to hook it up to your motors so once you strip that off you should have something that looks pretty similar to this whether using this a SC or whether you picked up a different one it should have three different tabs are ready to solder to what we need to do this is what we need to hook up our mode is now I’m going to show you how to do this once and then I want you to replicate that four times you should end up with four of these one for each arm so you’re probably going to need about let’s say an inch from the motor worth of cable right there you know just to give yourself a little bit of room so I want you to snip that and then this is what we call it stripping the end of the wire so we need to expose a little bit of that wire so we can solder it straight up so just slightly clamp it and pull off the silicone on the outside and now what we need to do are we’re going to be soldering these up so I’m going to zoom in a little bit and then we’ll get on where their first little bit of soldering and don’t worry it is super easy now if you’re like me and the thought of soldering freaks you out when you’ve never done it before don’t worry I felt like that too back when I started but let me tell you it is very very easy and I’m going to put a little playlist here as well go watch that if you have never sold it before watch that I’ll show you some little tips that should help but fear not it is a very very easy you’ll see and after your first one or two you’ll be like ah is that it definitely I had nothing to worry about now I’m using a little bit of blue tick blue tick sorry now I’m using a little bit of blue tack that’s a big tip I can use it’s very easy for holding your wires so if you want something to hold your eyes in a little bit of blue tack I guess you could probably use even something like chewing gum if you really were in a bind now what we’re going to do because we’ve got these exposed wires on the end we’re going to go through the process of turning them and that just makes it very very easy to join up to our ESC a little bit later on so a little bit of solder on your clean soldering iron straight on and just add a little bit more you’re going to do all that to three of those wires so we’re going to tin that those three wires there we go and then what we’re going to do we’re also going to tin these pads on the ESC as well so you can see we’ve got one two three pads then the idea is just to get in and out as quick as you can one two three and then once you’ve done that this is how easy it is because we’ve gone through that process what we’re going to do we’re just something simply going to hook up these three wires to these three pads and I like to start on the middle wire I feel like that makes our job a little bit easier again I’m using the blue tack to sort of hold it down to stop it moving around and you can see just how quickly I’m getting in and out as well that’s it that’s all there is to it if you can do that you can do this build so it’s very very simple stuff now what we need to do because that’s only going to go on one of our arms we need to do that with the remaining three motors and ESC so let’s do that and then cut back to when we’re ready for our next step all right so now I’ve done that it’s time for our drone to take shape a little bit we’re going to screw each one of these motors on to the arm making sure the ESC wires are running up the middle and you also want to use a little bit of Loctite as well so if you open up your drone box motors that they came with you should get four little screws each one to go goes through these little holes so it’s very very straightforward put a little Loctite on the end and screw it in so let’s do that now and then get on with the build so now we’ve done that on the standard version we’ve got our motors NDSCS attached to our frame with our flight controller in there there’s one more little thing what we need to do first before we put some heat-shrink on here you’ll notice on these particular esc s we really only need the positive the ground and also the signal wire so this little extra ground here we can actually just cut that straight off because we’re not going to be using that in this build so I’m going to just simply snip that right there and then I want to do that to all four of these and then we’ll put some heat-shrink on as well all righty so in a moment we’re gonna solder it straight up to our flight controller but what I want to do this is the heat shrink I spoke about before I’m just gonna clip this off actually it’s gonna make it a bit easier I just want to slide this over the top so here we go 1a SC three wires coming off I want to slide this over the top this little bit of heat shrink and this is going to stop it shorting out and also protect our ESC a little bit as well so grab the wires pull it over then it should simply slide over the top and then we’re going to shrink that down at the end don’t do it right now because look if something’s not right you might have a loose soil enjoin uh something it’s always much easier to change it rather than sort of do it all again so leave it loose will heat it down at the end so let’s put four bits of heat shrink on and then continue with the build so we’ve done that we’ve got a heat shrink on it now it’s time I’m going to solder up straight to our flight control we’re going to be connecting these up but what we’re going to do we’re going to pre it in all these pads so just like we did on the ASA’s to make the wise join nice and easy we need to do that as well so I’m going to zoom in a little bit because there’s quite a little few little tabs we have to solder we don’t have to do more don’t worry only a couple over this side I’ll explain all of them as we go along so let’s zoom in and have a look at how we do it now with this one what we need to do we’re going to solder it up we’re going to connect a lot of these pads up so I’m just doing these ones other for the battery all right they will be coming back to those in a little bit and then each one of these ASC Y’s needs to go up to a corresponding little pad so each one of these you notice in each corner has this one says m14 motor one it’s going to have a positive and a negative and also a tiny little 1/4 that’s where our signal is going to go as well so I like to I like to have the screws on here as well because sometimes you can solder it up and then you realize that you’re wise in the way so that’s why I like to screw it down first so let’s go through and do each one of our little motor tips alright so that be ready to solder up and while we’re at it let’s also get ready for putting out receiver in and also at camera and our VTX so the receiver side of things that’s very easy it’s just these three pads right here so we’ve got our ground voltage and signal and then because we’re going to be using smart audio this is our TX 3 right here so that’s we’re going to be hooking up one of our parts to our VTX a little bit later and then over this side this is where we’ve got our stuff for our camera so we’ve got our ground our 5 volt and video in and our ground five volt and video out it might seem a little bit confusing right now but don’t worry we will be coming through this when it’s time to hook up their correspond parts so that bits going to be for the camera and the VTX as well but now that’s all done let’s hook up these ESC straight to our board so we’re going to snip these wires I’m gonna show you how to do one and then I want you to replicate that with all four look what you’re gonna need to do and I want you to do this one wire at a time so each one of these where it says pretty much you’ve got your M 1 M 2 M 3 and M 4 that’s for the white signal wires and then these are the positive so positive positive positive positive and the grounds are on the outside as well so I’m going to start with my positive wire and I’m just going to measure it with my finger take a little snip strip the end like we did for our like we did for our motors solder it up little bit of pre tin it up and then just simply hook it up alright so that’s a positive now I’m gonna do my signal wire so let’s give myself about that much room it’s always better to have a little bit more room than a little bit less that is annoying if you cut it too short and then hook up my ground don’t be afraid either to move it around so you can find what position works best for you I’m just trying to not get my head in the camera sorry guys alrighty so that’s one of them I’ve done one motor what I want you to do I want you to replicate this with motors one two three and also four so go ahead push pause do that now and let’s move on with the rest of the build so that’s all done that the last thing we’re going to need to do before we move on I’m going to show you how much easier it is I guess to do on the pro version with that all in one sort of flight control ESC but we need to put in a little battery lead so that’s very very easy all you need to do get your xt60 and put a bit of LED in there that’s why I like the blue tack it makes it very easy that’s one side fill the other side and then I’m going to do the same we’re going to pre Tim also look you can use some of the Y’s you cut off but I don’t recommend it I wouldn’t recommend spend that extra one or two bucks and you can buy some extra wire I’ll link that down below as well and same sort of process we’re going to strip the end and then we’re going to solder it up so did again that free tinning sort of thing and then we’re ready to put it in to xt60 so simply put it on the top that’s one connection and two and now we’re going to do to the other end we’re going to strip the other end as well and we’re just about to hook it up to our flight controller but what I want you to do first with some of that heat shrink slide that on as well because that’s going to stop any shorts happening so once that’s done yeah I put them on the same way golly gosh then let’s hook this up to our drone and that simply goes on these two little battery pads right here so we’ve got our grand on this side and our voltage on this side done so there it is that most of our solder and done we just need to put an fpv gear what we’re gonna do now let’s jump over have a look at the pro version and you’ll see it’s actually quite a little bit quite a lot simpler so all we need to do is hook how about motorways directly so you can see also we need to add a little XD 60 on the end because this one actually comes pre soldered with a wire well let’s go through the same sort of similar process I’m gonna put the four motors on and then I’ll show you just how easy it is to hook those up to this flight controller alrighty so for those follow along at home building the pro version you guys get it a little bit simpler it’s a little bit more expensive but when you’ve got a forum on ESC like that you completely cut out that middle ESC soldering up section so all we need to do is we’re going to take our direct motor wires run them across and solder them direct to these three little pads so this is four motors one which is this one motor two goes to these three the three wires of motor three go to this tab these tabs here and motor for its wires go to that one right there so very very simple stuff again I recommend to sort of cut them to length one at a time and if you want to be really fancy you can take it around the inside and then sort of have it towards the outside facing like that that looks really really nice but I’m not going to do it in this version so it depends on your soldering skills and how comfortable you’re feeling this way is a little bit easier I find a little bit easier to repair but they do stick you out as well so it might be a little bit easier to get snagged but each to their own so I’m going to solder all those up it’s the exact same process so we’ll do one here and then I’ll let you repeat all the rest so let’s cut it snip it then we’re going to tin it like that and while we’re at it too we should also go around ant in each one of these so let’s go through there this is exactly the same process before so go go round ten all these wires and then once you’ve done that to the whole lot go all the way around the outside you simply just solder them up like that and then Bob’s your uncle so let’s cut back to what that looks like once we’ve done all the sold and then you go through preaching them all cuddle the wise sold them all down and then our build is going to be looking cleaner and we’re ready to install some FPV all right so I’ve soldered all those up and then I also was here I went through and I just tapped each one of these with a little bit of solder so these were the little tabs right at the front because we’re going to hook up our receiver to these ones over here and also our camera and our VTX to this one as well and then there’s one more little piece right here we want to hit TX six which is this little one right next to this button so I if you can be pretty careful with this one and then if you so then just get your soldering iron nice and clean and just a little dab in and out just like that and then that’s why we’re going to be hooking up our smart audio so it’s just they’re very very tricky to see but I’ll flash a bigger picture on the screen anyway where you can do that and then go ahead put a little bit of heat shrink on here and connect up and xt60 ready for your battery just like we did on the base version all righty so you can see both are drones taking place this one our base version air sees on the arms very pretty similar stuff but this one we’ve got all the kit in the middle this one a little bit simpler but let’s kick it off and now all we need to do is put in some fpv and then we really are off to the races so the first part we’re going to do we’re going to put in the VT X’s so I’ve got the 58 or 48 over on this side and then the 50 to 58 on this side so we’re simply going to hook them up what I recommend doing first is they come with some little cables so we’re going to do the base version first and then we’ll move over and I’ll show you what to do with the pro version and the reason this is important is because we want this to have smart audio so what that means is you can press the buttons if you mainly want to select the channels and all those and have a look at the LEDs or when you’ve got the you can just use your radio you can select what frequency and what channel you want this thing and what power level as well you want this little VTX to be pumping out its signal some really really cool feature so let’s go ahead and set that up now on both of these drones because they’re a little bit different in their process but very very similar still I’m just going to pause the video to and throw this one in here because some people they like even more upgrades and this one this is a fantastic VTX so this one very very reliable and an awesome connector so if you want to upgrade even more and you want to spend a little bit more check out this may tech one as well so let’s jump over hatsue min because it is quite small and have a look at the base version first okey-dokey now the 5848 you’re going to notice it comes with this cable it’s got an awful lot of wires to it that’s what we’re going to do our work on and that we can actually get to rid of these two wires straight off the bat so if you using this one along if you plan at home all we really need is our video wire our positive and our ground and if you’ve got one with smart audio if you’re building one as well with smart orders audio that’s the cable you need as well so what I’m going to do we don’t actually need these other one so I’m going to take those out you can simply put something sharp in lift up a little tooth and then it should slide right out there’s one this is much cleaner way than just cutting them either there is two so now we should have something that looks like this with the four wires that we have now three of these wires I didn’t get it sold it up to the standard place where it goes on our on our board right here so that’s going to be over this side so we should do that in a moment I’m going to give myself let’s see a fair bit of room so you want it to be able to move around if you need to move your camera back and forth and all those sorts of parts let’s say then it’s cut off just here it doesn’t matter if it’s a little bit too long that’s fine and then the other side that’s going to be going over here so this is the smart audio on that’s going to be on to TX 3 so yeah that’s fine so that should be fine as well so for those playing along yeah I go GI pretty much cut that to the exact same length but maybe 2 inches give yourself about two inches of wiggle room now exactly the same procedure because we’ve tinned all these pads we’re simply going to strip the ends these ones are nice silicon wise so I can actually do these ones with my fingers and then that we’re going to solder that up so let’s put a little bit of solder on the end I’m going to put a picture on the screen as well just to make these things clear because you want to get these around the right way with the top one there that’s going to be our ground followed by our voltage which is red then we’ve got our video there we go and our smart audio is going to be going over to this tab right here so tx3 and remember this is just for this base version there we go then all we’re going to need to do is clip this on here and that’s it our VTX is pretty much ready to go if we power it on at the moment now what we’ll do we’re at it let’s install our camera so I’m just using this one right here this is the sort of generic camera little T at 1200 T V old CMOS camera and we’re just going to simply install that into the other side of this so everywhere where there’s a ground positive end video in that’s what we’re going to do so give myself a little bit of room let’s say about that much it’s pretty much the same at front to back I’m just going to orientate it a little bit so it’s a little bit easier for me let’s see we’ve got ground towards the front followed by our voltage in the middle and our video in all righty then what we’re going to need to do is hook up our camera just plug it in and believe it or not that’s pretty much ready to rock and roll we’ve got it right there so what we should do that’s the flight control this one let’s jump over to the pro version and have a look at how things go very very similar process so let’s cut to that now so on the pro version it’s almost exactly the same so we’re really we can get rid of two of these wires here but we just want the ground and the voltage and then our video wire which is the yellow one and then also the green one at the end which is a sort of smart audio Y so I’m going to take these two out so let’s have a look here if you’re playing along and you want to sort of have a look on here it is we want smart audio the video ground and the 7 to 24 volts so that’s what we’re going to be keeping and you can just remove the 5 volt out and the spare ground that they’ve got there strip the ends again like we did I’m going to use my fingernails because it makes it pretty easy we can solder in our VTX so very very simple stuff we’ve just got our flash another picture on the screen as well you can also you can also refer to this little diagram a little sort of heat shrink that came with it so so our first one we’re going to solder in is our ground which goes to the second one right here actually get them nice and straight before you put them on to this one then we’ve got our five volts and then after our five volt let’s do our video out because remember this is going to be going straight to our VTX and then our little s bus chord we’re going to hook this up to this one just here this tiny little part that we soldered before there we go so that’s it that’s now we can connect this up and that would be our VTX ready to rock and roll but what we should do well we’re here let’s do the same thing let’s put our camera in brighty so did before we install that camera I just want to talk about this one a little bit so this is an upgrade over the base version and it is one of the best things you can do as well as upgrading the motors which I really recommended from this one from the base version getting a nice fpv camera makes the colors look nice so it just makes you overall fpv experience that much better so getting a good fpv camera definitely I can’t recommend it enough there’s going to be a whole bunch I’ll link down below as well you don’t just have to get this one but make sure that’s if you want to spend a little bit of extra cash this is definitely one of the best places you can put it into so even if you want to build that base version or put this camera in there that’s a nice idea as well but this one very very similar so same sort of thing you’re gonna notice there’s some extra wires on this one that is just so you can plug in you can do a little bit of tuning to your camera so you can get the contrast and the colors you can get a just like you like it same sort of thing we’ve got three wires and it’s pretty much the exact same process so all we need to do is to run that to our flight controller so I’m going to give that a snip and turn it up and then we can hook it straight up what we’re going to do we’re sort of going to piggyback on top of them so because there’s only one at 5 volt out we’re going to put the connector red on top of this red there’s a spare ground thankfully and also we’ll go to the video ends I’m going to start on this side because that’s for the video end so let’s get that nice and straight solder that in there we go and then we’ve got our ground so it will salt it in our ground untwist this just a little bit to make my life a little bit easier which goes to this one and then this is probably the trickiest joint of them all because there’s only one that 5-volt out we’re just going to put this one on top of the other one so you can take our there we go jumped off so it can be a little bit tricky sometimes all righty you there we go alrighty so now the really exciting part it’s a bit like Lego this is probably my favorite part of any build is when you sort of put it together you put the top on your zip tie things down and you’re drawing that started off as a mishmash of Y’s and parts everywhere really comes together but before we do that what I do want to recommend people to do because it’s going to be thrashing these things around they’re going to be taking an absolute beating some of these wires can become a little bit fragile due to vibrations so just put a bit of hot glue on there and that really strengthens them up and makes it last a lot longer so I’m going to do that I’ve got my little hot glue gun alright you so just over these little ones is probably where it’s important and some of the signal wires on this one as well okay now for the exciting part what I’m going to do run the show you put this stand off here put a bit of tape here I’m just going to cut to what they look like when they’re all built up because then I can explain things a lot easier because it’s really really straightforward but we’re essentially kind of put the top plate on and a zip tied in a few places tidy up some of these wires with a little bit of tape and then show you pretty much what your drone is going to be looking like so let’s cut to that in three two one get excited buh alrighty there it is give yourself a pat on the back these things are absolutely gorgeous so you’re gonna have a big smile on your face when you put them together but let’s go through how that actually happened once I had all the loose parts there all ended up doing for this version for the base version a zip tied down the esc s we’ve shrunk the heat shrink right there I put some props on I’ll talk about the props in a little bit as well and then you can see I mounted the camera in the side using the plate that comes with it now you are going to get a limited camera angle but I’m going to show you a different thing you can do whether you want to choose a micro camera you could put in there or I’ll show you what I did on the pro version to alleviate that and then some other parts I just stuck my VTX to the roof of the top plate and you’re still got access to the little buttons in there as well and overall it’s so simple once you screwed in the stand off screw the top on it goes together easier than Lego and you’ve got yourself as such gorgeous looking dry and if I don’t say so myself then then on the pro version you can see I did things just a little bit differently we’ve taped down the arms I’ll put a few zip ties on here to help don’t hold down things as well this one I would recommend if you’ve got one of these larger antennas on there zip tie that down as well because that means it’s not going to break your VTX in a crash because all the pressure is going to be going onto this zip tie and then a different part what I actually did in the front you’re going to notice there’s these two little holes and you might not want to use the side plate another camera option you can do it comes with the cameras you’re going to get a little plate like this you can actually bolt that upside down into these two little holes that’s what I’ve done on this one and that recess is my camera back just a little bit more gives it I’ll put a picture on the screen as well gives it a little bit better protection and allows me to get a little bit more till now I mentioned it before all we have to do is put our props on so look at the generic ones on here we’ve got the faster avians on this one they’re all linked down below but they’re sort of all spinning towards the inside of the craft in the Reverse it’s the opposite they’re spinning out from the center so they go in that way and these ones are going that way so I much for muchness don’t worry about it too much and if you do to change the direction of your motor or you’ve got to plug it in I’ll link the program down below to Bill heli it’s like a two button press on the computer bang it’s gonna switch the direction of whatever motor you choose so very very simple easy stuff now what I’m going to do I’m gonna put a receiver in these bad boys because look everybody has depending on their radio and what receiver they using all those setups are different there should be a little guide if you want to watch using the S bus and the same ones I do that should pop up right here it’s very very easy it’s just solder on three wires are those three little tabs that we’ve already pre-sold and ready we’ve pre-tin them ready to rock and roll so it’s a very very simple process you shouldn’t have any worries whatsoever let’s do that put a receiver in and then go have some fun and rip it around alrighty so there it is there’s my ume futures 2018 they’re $99 build the upgraded version I really can’t stress that enough please if you build along a home I really recommend upgrade the motors and if you want a second partner put in upgrade that fpv camera it’s just gonna make it that little bit sweeter but that’s all the hard work done now this is what it’s all about get together with your mates go out fly around so that’s what we should do let’s go show you how much fun these things can be so that’s what we’re gonna do now we’re gonna go have a fly hopefully you guys enjoyed that remember if you want to win one of these you check the Official Rules down below but these ones going out for people who like them comment all that sort of stuff this one’s going out there’s somebody who replies to somebody in the comments as well and that subscribe for fpv related content let me know what do you guys think about this build good luck with it if you’re a new pilot welcome to the Hobby fpv is one of the best things you can do it is so much fun subscribe to my FB better content and as always happy flying let’s do it let’s go fly these things Rodya out here in the field let’s do it the weather has turned it on this is like the best day we’ve had in months we’re gonna fly around I only find the standard version my mate Granger he’s gonna be playing the upgraded version we’re flying around have some fun and she just had cool awesome and amazing at these $99 bills can be alright let’s do it

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